Author: Jack Stephens

  • The Hijab Takeover: A Fashion Phenomenon

    What do Nike, H&M, and Fenty Beauty share in common? These powerhouse brands have embraced a budding trend in the world of fashion: the hijab takeover. The year 2017 saw hijabi supermodel Halima Aden as part of Rihanna’s squad in the Fenty Beauty launch commercial, and hijabi Mariah Idrissi featured in an international H&M campaign.

    The Hijab in Western Advertising Campaigns

    A question comes to mind, “When did the hijab become so accepted that it’s now commonplace in Western advertising campaigns?” This shift can be traced to the increasing visibility of hijab-wearing fashionistas and influential women on social media platforms.

    Social Media: A Platform for Hijabis

    Social media has become a haven for hijabi women to showcase their talent, express themselves, and connect with other Muslim women across the globe. Though considered at odds with society or invisible, hijabi women have become normalized through social media and mainstream advertising campaigns.

    The Importance of Representation

    Nour Coudsi, a University of California, Berkeley student, emphasizes the importance of representation. “If you cannot see yourself in the media, it’s hard to gain a sense of representation, especially for girls who are just starting to wear the hijab,” she said. The media landscape is slowly changing, offering a sense of belonging and validation to hijabi women worldwide.

    Redefining the Hijab

    Social media is also enabling the Muslim community to engage in dialogue on what the hijab truly represents. Traditionally, the hijab is a cultural choice in Islam to express modesty and privacy through attire. But a single scroll through the #hijab on Instagram reveals various looks that define the hijab.

    Hijab: An Expression of Individuality

    Stanford sophomore, Leenah Al-Falih, speaks about her experience with the hijab, saying, “The variations of this do not matter, as long as you feel comfortable. I sometimes wear a beanie; I sometimes wear a headscarf. I try to break all the standards and stereotypes of what a hijabi should look like.”

    The Hijab as a Fashion Statement

    Millennials are increasingly interpreting the hijab in ways that diverge from the traditions of their mothers and grandmothers. The hijab is increasingly viewed as a component of fashion expression, not simply a veil of modesty.

    Brands Capitalizing on the Hijabi Market

    Significant brands also recognize the purchasing power of hijabi women across the globe. “Social media channels spreading hijabi makeup artists and clothing lines have helped me find more hijab-friendly clothes,” said Michael Alqadeeb, a Stanford second-year master’s student in geophysics.

    Hijabis: Breaking Stereotypes and Inspiring Women

    Hijabi women are no longer “hidden behind a veil,” as Al-Falih explains. They are inspiring figures in the media, proving there are no limits to what a hijabi woman can achieve. Hijabis are visible now and are here to stay. They are not only fashion influencers but also esteemed figures like Ibtihaj Muhammad, a U.S. Olympian fencer, and Noor Tagouri, a critically acclaimed journalist. Numerous Stanford women are studying various degrees, making a statement with their hijabs.

  • Fashioning Rebellion: Harnesses and their Role in Today’s Fashion Landscape

    Harnesses: More than just a Trend

    Harnesses are making a statement in today’s fashion, a trend perhaps unexpected and challenging convention. These belt-like structures, created to contour and emphasize the body, have infiltrated runways, music festivals, and celebrity wardrobes. Once associated with taboo subcultures, they have now metamorphosed into a chic trend. Here’s an exploration of this fascinating journey, weaving in its connections with the BDSM subculture.

    The Versatility and Origins of Harnesses

    “Fundamentally, a harness converges various belt-like figures, devised to contour and emphasize the body.”

    “Leather harness” might conjure images ranging from a risqué club to a canine accessory. However, harnesses, like lingerie-as-fashion and the recent enthusiasm for slip dresses, have morphed from a forbidden concept into a trend-setting addition. This past season, leather harnesses appeared in department stores, boutiques, music festivals, fashion runways, and even adorned pop icon Taylor Swift. Vogue featured an article providing tips on rocking a harness without falling prey to a fashion faux pas. Despite its current runway fame, the roots of the saddle lie deep within the decades-old BDSM subculture.

    Harnesses: A Fusion of Fashion and Function

    Harnesses, a fusion of belt-like structures, are crafted to flatter and emphasize the body, typically focusing on the shoulders or chest. These accessories can range from complex and fetish-inspired, as evident in the designs of Zana Bayne and Yeha Leung, to minimalist and understated, like BCBG’s simplistic body-framing lines. Not confined to leather, the Swedish indie designer Pink Milk Sweden primarily uses vegan leather, while Australian model-designer Teale Coco crafts intricate waterproof items in stretch satin, leading to vibrant bathtub photoshoots featured on her website.

    Harnesses: The Ultimate Style Statement

    Harnesses as versatile as your preferred handbag can be donned over a form-fitting top, layered over an elegant dress for a gothic twist, or paired with your winter sweater to create stunning silhouettes. They can breathe new life into loose outfits that might otherwise hide your figure. A harness to a simple t-shirt dress instantly transforms it into a trendy, figure-enhancing piece. These daring fashion statements might seem novel, but according to an interview with Zana Bayne, a renowned designer whose clients range from Debbie Harry to Beyoncé, fashion harnesses have been strutting down runways since the 1980s.

    The Resurgence of Harnesses in Fashion

    The resurgence of harnesses begs the question: why now? Aesthetically, harnesses blend seamlessly with recent minimalist trends, providing geometric structure without overwhelming an ensemble. They cater to fashion as a platform for visual avant-garde, but this time, they’ve emerged in mainstream fashion alongside an expanding discourse around sexuality and unconventional relationship structures.

    Harnesses: The Intersection of Fashion and Cultural Change

    Before making a splash on Louis Vuitton runways, leather harnesses were sported by men in the 1970s gay leather scene in cosmopolitan cities like Berlin and San Francisco. Leather resurfaced in E.L. James’ erotic novel Fifty Shades of Gray, which, despite criticisms around healthy consent practices, encouraged individuals to probe and discuss their identities without fear of public scrutiny. This summer, as college attendees sported harnesses over crop tops at music festivals, the Huffington Post published an article titled “Trying To Understand Consent? Ask The LGBTQ and Kink Communities.” Considering that interest in BDSM was a diagnosable pathology in the Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders (DSM) until 2013, such an article in a popular publication signifies a broadening of the mainstream understanding of sexuality.

    The Evolving Structure of Relationships

    Beyond that, the traditional structure of monogamous relationships itself is no longer an expectation. In various social circles at Stanford and beyond, individuals identifying as polyamorous, i.e., having multiple committed romantic relationships, have surfaced. Polyamory has also made its presence known online and in fashion publications.

    Harnesses: A Silent Shout-out to Identity

    To some, donning a harness is deeply ingrained in identity, a subtle nod to a kinky or queer identity akin to the hanky code. A once-underground accessory now finds its place in daily life, quietly implying that personal sexual exploration might be acceptable in the public eye.

    Harnesses: A Personal Statement

    However, for many trendsetters, harnesses bear no association with kink. These accessories are adaptable and suitable for personal expression. As Teale Coco rightly puts it, her harnesses are “genderless.” Saddles can be seen as morally powerful, a symbol of fantasy royalty, an expression of identity politics, or a mere aesthetic choice. They can vary in style from grungy, romantic, heavy, or delicate while remaining impractical. The harness is timeless and bold, stating its history and shrouded in implication.

  • Long Live our Four-Billion Year Old Mother

    Long Live Our Four Billion-Year-Old Mother” is a lecture series offered at Stanford University this quarter through the Institute for Diversity in the Arts. The series is led by professors Alan Holt and Jakeya Caruthers, both respected voices in their respective fields. In my recent conversation with them, they shared insights into the driving factors behind creating this unique conversational forum.

    The main aim of the lecture series is to stretch the boundaries of imagination and to explore the concept of a world “otherwise.” The idea is to envision a world unbound by the constructs of borders, devoid of the necessity for incarceration, and free from the specter of climate collapse.

    The series has welcomed artists from numerous domains engaged in radical storytelling and organizing, covering essential topics such as police abolition, community mothering, and indigenization. These discussions are not meant to be mere academic exercises but aim to challenge existing thought structures and generate new perspectives actively.

    Holt and Caruthers express that the knowledge drawn from these forums can be a significant driving force towards conceiving and ultimately achieving this “otherwise” world. The lectures are designed to ignite the collective imagination of attendees and encourage them to think beyond the confines of traditional societal structures.

    This collaborative exploration of such critical themes underscores the importance of diversity in intellectual dialogue and the power of interdisciplinary learning. The course is a testament to Stanford’s commitment to fostering an inclusive academic environment that actively encourages innovative thought.

    As of the time of writing, the “Long Live Our Four Billion-Year-Old Mother” lecture series continues to incite thought-provoking conversations about reimagining the societal structures that we live within. The series stands as a testament to the value of diversity in academia and the transformative power of radical storytelling.

  • A Conversation with Stephanie Danan of CO

    This is an episode of an ongoing series of MINT interviews at Neiman Marcus.

    MINT: What was your background before you got started in fashion?

    Stephanie Danan: Well, I actually started in the movie business. I made movies for twenty years in Hollywood before I transitioned into fashion. I did have some fashion experience because my family was in it, so I knew it quite well. My partner and I started to do a small collection in 2011, and we made a film to go along with the collection, which got seen online by a lot of people. The stores started calling us and that’s how we started.

    MINT: That’s very interesting because a lot of people talk about large fashion houses and how they maintain a monopoly on fashion and what the people and stores buy…how they set the trends. But it sounds like you came up in a grassroots, avant garde kind of way. Do you see your method as a trend, or are you an anomaly?

    Stephanie Danan: I just think this idea that there is only one way to get to something is not true. There are so many different ways to get to where you want to go, and in terms of fashion, art, or film, a good story is a good story. Whether you prefer to tell that story through a screenplay, a collection, or a painting, it’s all the same. You are trying to convey an emotional experience.

    MINT: That’s really interesting. Since you made a film that was disseminated online, how do you feel like the role of technology as far as marketing has been incorporated in fashion today?

    Stephanie Danan: What’s really changed is the speed and how quickly people want the new things, which puts a lot of pressure on fashion and definitely changed the landscape that way. That’s why we try to create classic pieces which have nothing to do with the trends. We aim to create timeless fashion.

    MINT: Based on your background working in films, how do you see that inspiration in your clothes or how you define the line?

    Stephanie Danan: In terms of films, I studied drama and dramatic storytelling, so I think there is a bit of that in our clothes. There is a dramatic impact, whether a sleeve or an embellishment. But we’re also staying quite simple and trying to stand for the experience as well.

    MINT: I really like your idea of everything having to tell a story. For someone who works in publishing, we always try to incorporate that as well. Do you think you could tell me first a story about any challenges you faced at the beginning of the company?

    Stephanie Danan: We started in our living room. We had no money. We lived and breathed our work. We gave 100% of ourselves into the experience, which was quite challenging. We had to work really hard to get to a place where we were able to show the collection to the store and deliver on time. The whole process of the cycle of fashion is very challenging. It was definitely hard, and there was a learning curve for sure.

    MINT: Was there any time you felt like giving up?

    Stephanie Danan: I don’t think so, not yet!

    MINT: Also, if you could talk about one of your pieces that conveys some story?

    Stephanie Danan: This dress (shown on the left model) is my favorite of the collection. This collection was shot at Marlene Dietrich’s home in Los Angeles, which was never shot before; where she spent a lot of time, and a lot of archival photography was shot in that house. For me, it is very reminiscent of that era of old Hollywood glamour.

    MINT: This piece is really beautiful. Can you tell me more about it as far as the process and what it contains?

    Stephanie Danan: I fell in love with the fabric and wanted to use this flowing, velvety fabric to create an effortless silhouette. I talk a lot about it being a perfect hostess dress when you have people over for dinner and that you are dressed up but not overly dressed because of its flowing and casual nature. I like this idea of incredibly rich fabrics but a very easy casual silhouette.

    MINT: I like this idea of the perfect hostess dress. It makes me think that each of these pieces has a role…

    Stephanie Danan: Yes, a character.

    MINT: Exactly. So what would be the overall vibe character you are going for with your design?

    Stephanie Danan: Femininity. The character is always feminine, but she makes fun of herself and doesn’t take herself too seriously because we don’t like it when fashion takes itself too seriously. She is generous. She knows who she is. She is strong and leads a very busy life, but she is also multi-cultured, loves movies and traveling, and is not one-dimensional.

    MINT: Looking toward the future, where do you see your company and your designs going?

    Stephanie Danan: I aspire to make women feel great about themselves, not necessarily through the clothes but through the brand’s message. The clothes are just an extension of who they are: individuals with a lot of beauty and love that emanates from within. The clothes are really there to serve that and nothing else.

  • The Me(dia) Generation: The Takeover of Digital Influencers

    Miquela Sousa, also known as Lil Miquela, is a modern, 19-year-old influencer who has captured the fashion industry’s attention. She’s the epitome of cool with her unique style blending high fashion, vintage, and streetwear. The only catch – Miquela isn’t real.

    Lil Miquela is a CGI creation. She has a strong following of over 1.1 million loyal Instagram fans, challenging our understanding of reality and social media. She recently released an Instagram post revealing she is not a human being. Miquela claims her “managers” are a Los Angeles-based startup called Brud, who supposedly stole her technology from Cain Intelligence, a company that doesn’t exist.

    Miquela’s purpose remains unclear. Is she an art project? A social experiment? A marketing strategy? Or something more dystopian, straight out of a science fiction movie?

    Creating CGI models is one thing. Operating them as humans, complete with friends, enemies, and drama, is another. And let’s not forget the money they earn from brand sponsorships.

    But Lil Miquela isn’t alone. CGI model Shudu, portrayed as a dark-skinned black woman, recently caused controversy. Fenty Beauty reposted an image of Shudu wearing the brand’s lipstick, which led to backlash as critics argued that a real woman of color was denied an opportunity.

    These digital models not only exacerbate beauty standards but also raise questions about what we’re doing to our understanding of reality. What happens when the female bodies featured in magazines, on billboards, and across social media are not even partially natural?

    Despite this, digital influencers like Lil Miquela can have a positive impact. Miquela’s Instagram bio advocates for Black Lives Matter and links to the charity Black Girls Code. But is her very existence doing more harm than good?

    These perfect digital images make us feel that our real lives are not glamorous enough. People should have genuine role models with honest consciences and actual problems. CGI creaturcan’tn’t make mistakes because thdon’tn’t exist past the screen.

    Perhaps Miquela is here to teach us to be mo”e “r”al” on our own social media feeds. Make our social media lives more like scrapbooks than sophisticated digital marketing machines. Mayit’st’s time to connect real-life people living in real places worldwide. Perit’s it’s time to be human again.


    This article was cited in a blog post by Inyoung Choi ti”led “My embarrassing love story (Here we go, F”OTQ),” published on Jan. 15, 2019. In her post, Choi discusses her approach to love and relationships, the idea of emotional connection, and the concept of care in human relationships. She also shares some interesting articles by her peers, including JuliYonis’sn”s’s “The Me(dia) Generation: The Takeover of Digital Influe”cers,” published in MINT Magazine.

  • Why Femme Male Models Matter: Shattering Stereotypes in Fashion

    In an enlightening editorial on the roles and stereotypes in the fashion industry, “Why Femme Male Models Matter” explores the growing trend of gender fluidity in fashion. Siena Fay delves into this topic with personal experiences and industry examples. You can find the complete article and corresponding photo collection here.

    Siena Fay and her brother Blue Fay models for the editorial, which Jessica Yeung beautifully photographs. Their explorations into fashion and its impact on their own lives present an illuminating view on how gender roles and stereotypes are being challenged.

    Siena’s brother, Blue, himself a model, defies traditional gender norms with grace and style. Not alone in this endeavor, the fashion industry has begun to blur the lines between femininity and masculinity. Designers such as Marc Jacobs, Stefano Pilati, Gucci, Vetements, and Palomo Spain have challenged these conventions, showcasing their collections on mixed-sex models.

    The fashion world is progressively diluting the stark boundaries of traditional masculinity. This allows individuals to express their identities more authentically. For instance, Louis Vuitton cast Jaden Smith in its Spring-Summer 2016 womenswear ad campaign, described by Vogue as cyberpunk bohemian chic.

    “I consider myself gender-fluid, and (modeling) is interestingly enough one of the few spaces where I really get to explore that part of my identity in a celebrated way,” said Blue Fay. Despite the progress, gender-fluid individuals still encounter resistance, making their bravery in expressing their identity all the more commendable.

    While fashion provides an avenue to challenge gender stereotypes, the struggle for acceptance outside the industry remains real. “Sometimes I worry when my brother goes to the bank or Target with his pointed blue acrylic nails and red lipstick. But mostly, I am proud,” shares Siena.

    In a time when political dynamics and societal norms seem more regressive, fashion is striking back with a strong message of inclusion. Icons like Jaden Smith and Pharrell Williams have championed the cause, normalizing what wasn’t expected before their time. The movement isn’t just about the inclusion of femme male models or gender-fluid individuals. It is about pushing for a broader representation beyond the traditional molds.

    The fashion industry is striving towards this goal, but there is still a long way to go. As Siena Fay beautifully puts it, “Fashion still has a long way to go before all genders and identities are represented, but the space being carved out is promising. Perhaps we will witness fashion change the social construct of masculinity. Perhaps we already are, one skirt at a time.”

    To understand the full depth of this conversation, explore the original article. It’s not just about fashion. It’s about identity, acceptance, and the courage to challenge societal norms.

  • The Golden Standard: Redefining Beauty through Diversity and Inclusion

    In an engaging showcase of the changing beauty norms, “The Golden Standard” editorial visually complements an enlightening discussion on the representation of people of color in the beauty industry. Be sure to explore the captivating images here.

    As societal definitions of beauty continue to evolve, one seemingly immovable constant has been an inherently unequal standard of beauty. With its global influence, the beauty industry has historically followed the interests of its dominant buyers. Unfortunately, this has resulted in a beauty standard that favors lighter skin tones.

    Recently, however, this narrative has begun to shift. The September 2017 release of Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty, with its wide range of 40 foundation shades, challenged the industry standard. With a commitment to creating for “all skin colors, all undertones, from all countries,” the line has been a game changer in beauty norms.

    In response, other makeup brands such as L’Oreal, Estée Lauder, and Kylie Cosmetics have started featuring models of darker skin tones in their campaigns. This shift promotes a broader definition of beauty, a much-needed change in the industry.

    Yet, while this shift towards inclusion is promising, it raises important questions. Are these companies genuinely committed to embracing diversity, or are these actions simply responses to market pressures? As consumers, we must scrutinize the intent behind these new inclusive lines and ensure they are more than a passing trend.

    To dive deeper into this conversation, delve into the original article where Stanford’s women of color discuss their experiences with the changing face of the beauty industry. The piece, written by Esther Omole, explores the impact of the evolving beauty industry, from the release ofRihanna’ss Fenty Beauty to the response of other major makeup brands.

    Explore the dynamic photo collection, taken by Jessica Yeung and modeled by Alexa Davy, Krithi Reddy, Tricia Monte, and Naya Yassin, that illustrates the depth and beauty of the new standards being set in the industry. Discover the essence of this change through the following images:

    These images and the enlightening conversation they accompany give us a glimpse into a more diverse future for the beauty industry. But the journey is far from over. If we hope to witness a true revolution in beauty standards, we must persist in challenging an excluding standard of beauty and continue to demand diversity and inclusion.

  • Give Face: Youthful Exuberance Shines in Ms. White’s Celebratory Drag Show

    Give Face, Stanford’s locally renowned drag show, is once again ready to hit the stage, featuring the vivacious Ms. White. As an artist based in the cultural hub of New York City, Ms. White has used her music to bravely document her personal journey, encapsulating everything from her relationships to her gender transition.

    This event, co-hosted by Stanford Concert Network and The Freeks, promises a high-energy, youthful introduction to Ms. White. An artist well-known for her vibrant personality and praised by Out Magazine for her “bright personality,” Ms. White brings a youthful exuberance and fresh perspective to her performance.

    Ms. White’s debut EP, named Jade, is an empowering testament to her self-discovery and the affirmation of her womanhood. With a tribute to the late Amy Jade Winehouse, Ms. White beautifully intertwines her exploration of femininity with the influential women who have inspired her.

    In an industry often characterized by patriarchal structures, Ms. White’s music boldly challenges these norms while celebrating the power and resilience of womanhood. Her unique blend of critique and celebration gives her music an edge, making it an exhilarating experience for the audience.

    While the show contains explicit content and is recommended for mature audiences, it encapsulates the spirit of youthful rebellion and the quest for identity. Mark your calendars, and prepare to be captivated by Ms. White’s dynamic charm and youthful spirit. Witness her powerful declaration of femininity in all its splendor at the Give Face drag show.

    For more behind-the-scenes content, delve into Give Face: Part 1 – Behind the Scenes on Stanford Mint.

  • A Conversation with Mesro Coles-El: The Power of Education and Resilience in the Prison System

    Introduction

    Every so often, we encounter an individual who can illuminate the profound impact that education and personal resilience can have on one’s life, even in the most challenging circumstances. Mesro Coles-El is one such individual. An inmate at San Quentin State Prison, Mesro, is currently graduating from the Prison University Project. He shares a few insights about his life, education, challenges, and aspirations with us. His story serves as a reminder that opportunity and potential can thrive anywhere – even within prison walls.

    Education and Legacy

    Coles-El champions the transformative power of education. He views it not merely as a stepping-stone to employment but as a life-changing journey of self-discovery and enlightenment. “College courses are not engineered to change your minds about your life completely. What if the class teaches you something right that you thought about wrongly? Make it a point to welcome the change in your life that comes with education,” he advises.

    The Prison University Project

    Grateful for the dedicated volunteers who have chosen to invest their time in inmates like him, Mesro believes the Prison University Project provides a much-needed platform for interactive learning. “Hearing ideas from teachers and students simultaneously is the best way to learn, in my opinion,” he shares.

    Challenging Assignments and Personal Achievements

    While unable to pinpoint a specific assignment as his favorite, Mesro reflects fondly on the collective experience of learning in prison, an environment far from conducive to intellectual growth. Among his proudest accomplishments are a poem titled “Human Element,” inspired during a chemistry midterm, a piece named “The Rock, the River, and the Tree,” published in OpenLine, and a series of film boards he created for Introduction to Film.

    Advice for Incoming Students

    To future students, Mesro’s advice is simple but impactful: take education seriously. He implores them to embrace the chance of a lifetime and not to squander the opportunities that come with it. “A chance for an education is not given to everyone the way some think it is,” he says, emphasizing the role of professors as supportive and enriching figures in this process.

    Future Aspirations

    Beyond completing his AA Degree, Mesro has set his sights on teaching and furthering his education, specifically in computer-based skills such as CGI, video games, films, websites, and programming. He also aspires to use his writing to effect social change and engage in creative pursuits in the digital world.

    Challenges and Misconceptions

    For Mesro, time management is one of the most significant challenges of being a college student. He candidly discusses the often misunderstood reality of prison life and the need for changes in the criminal justice system. He hopes to dispel the stereotypes surrounding incarcerated individuals and foster an understanding of their journey toward self-improvement and societal contribution.

    Influential Figures

    While he can’t single out one tutor or instructor, Mesro attributes his success to the collective impact of all the teachers and tutors he’s interacted with. Their open-mindedness and dedication have inspired his aspirations to become a teacher one day.

    Liberal Arts Education

    To Mesro, a Liberal Arts education signifies preparation for more specialized areas of study. He sees the reflection of Liberal Arts as instrumental in gaining a broad understanding of the world and serving as a foundation for further educational pursuits.

    Passions and Extra-curricular Activities

    Mesro has many passions, from literacy, gaming, mathematics, and social change, to hip-hop, science fiction, and astrophysics. His upcoming book, Triumph, combines several of these passions, presenting a science fiction narrative inspired by his commitment to literacy and education. Besides writing, he also engages in gaming, applying its techniques to his life and educational pursuits.

    Support System and Words of Wisdom

    Mesro credits his success to the Prison University Project volunteers, his encouraging parents, supportive friends, and classmates. He offers congratulation and encouragement to his fellow graduates, urging them to keep fighting for a better world.

    Coles-El’s story shines a light on the power of education and resilience, reminding us that it’s never too late to change our life trajectory, irrespective of where we find ourselves. His narrative embodies the possibilities of growth and transformation, even within the confines of the prison system.